Spending the night at a ryokan is a simple way to get an authentic Japanese experience. The facilities are well-maintained, the staff are friendly, there are various activities to try in town, and the inn boasts some delicious meals.
However, recent staffing issues have forced inns, local restaurants, and visitors to adapt. We’ll give you an overview of these changes and how these businesses work together. Finally, we’ll share some ways you can help as a hotel guest!
A ryokan is a traditional-style Japanese inn usually found at onsens (hot springs). These hotels opened in the Nara period (710-784), offering travellers a safe resting place. Some of these businesses have been open since the 8th century, being passed down to each subsequent generation. They’re not just popular with tourists or out-of-town folks; you’ll find plenty of locals booking a night’s or weekend’s stay.
Onsen towns are typically surrounded by forests and mountains, with trails close by for guests to explore. Inside ryokans, you’ll find tatami mats, futons, communal baths, and yukata to wear after you bathe. Some offer private baths, while others have a mixture of traditional and modern features. Finally, you might be able to participate in tea ceremonies and other fun experiences off-site, though the priority should be rest.
Kaiseki or kaiseki-ryori are multi-course meals where the chef’s skills are put on full display. There are two kinds of kaiseki: the banquet-style meal served on individual trays and the cha-kaiseki meal served before a tea ceremony. Both draw on various traditional cuisines, including the Zen Buddhist shōjin ryōri. Besides Japanese-style hotels, kaiseki are often served at ryōtei (traditional restaurants), especially in Kyoto.
Ryokan kaiseki are not to be missed. Each chef uses seasonal and local ingredients to create a feast for the eyes and stomach. The meal commences with an appetizer, followed by clear soup and raw fish or sashimi. Then there is an assortment of grilled, steamed, fried, pickled dishes, rice, and miso soup. Everything is finished with a sweet treat accompanied by sake, tea, and coffee.
Recently, ryokans have struggled to find new workers and return to pre-COVID-19 pandemic staff levels. This has been especially difficult now that tourism to Japan has resumed and even increased. Jobs at these inns come with low wages and a heavy workload. Because of this, former staff and Japanese youth have opted to work in other industries with more balance and stability instead of returning to or applying to traditional hotels.
Japan has also been strict about hiring foreign workers. Though the government introduced the Specified Skilled Worker (SSW) category in 2019 to attract foreign nationals, most ryokans prefer to hire Japanese staff. With the ongoing shortage, however, some inns are taking on more non-Japanese workers. Apart from that, there are other immediate measures businesses have decided to take to deal with this crisis.
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To cope with the influx of visitors and fewer staff, some inns only offer breakfast or have stopped serving meals. Instead, they encourage guests to eat at local restaurants and provide lists of where to go. In turn, restaurants stay open longer so more people can order food. Other hotels are closing a couple of days a week to allow staff to rest and focus on operating rooms instead of serving food.
This collaboration aims to ease ryokan staff’s workloads while increasing foot traffic to restaurants and providing more meal options for guests. Some inns are in remote locations with no other food options. Eating out is an additional expense for guests already splurging on their rooms. We recommend that travelers increase their budget for meals if they stay at a hotel without kaiseki.
These changes shouldn’t dampen your excitement at visiting a ryokan. Only a few inns have stopped offering kaiseki entirely, so double-check to see if your destination is one of them.
Try as many of the restaurants the inn suggests as you can. If you’re worried about spending, buy a small meal you can easily eat in your room or outside. Don’t forget to promote these places on social media so other travelers can check them out.
Order as soon as possible at inns where kaiseki is still being served, when ingredients are fresh, and staff aren’t as busy. If things take longer to arrive or there’s a mixup, be patient and understanding with servers – they’re doing their best with fewer people. Finally, make sure to show them your gratitude and appreciation. It’s a difficult time for ryokans, so we need everyone to work together and help each other!
Overall, ryokans are an important part of Japan’s history and economy. Staying at one of them allows you to experience Japanese culture more authentically. However, with fewer staff members to welcome guests, these inns must make some difficult changes.
They can ease workers’ burdens by teaming up with local restaurants and introducing new visitors to nearby eateries. You can also help by eating out and being extra considerate to staff during this time. Have you visited a ryokan since these changes were made? Share your experience with us below.
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